Molé: A Brief Guide

The word “molé” comes from the Nahuatl word “mōlli,” which means “sauce” or “concoction.” In Mexican cuisine, molé generally refers to a variety of rich, complex sauces that often include chiles as a key ingredient. Molés can vary widely in flavor, color, and ingredients, depending on the region and the specific recipe. One of the most famous types of molé is molé poblano, which typically includes chocolate, several types of chiles, nuts and spices which give it a deep, layered flavor.

Regional Variations

Molé Poblano and Molé Negro are both traditional Mexican molés that have chocolate as an ingredient but they have distinct flavors and regional origins. Here’s a comparison of the two:

Molé Poblano

1. Origin:

• Molé Poblano originates from the state of Puebla, Mexico.

2. Ingredients:

• Chiles: Typically includes mulato, pasilla, and sometimes ancho chiles.
• Other Key Ingredients: Includes almonds, sesame seeds, tomatoes, onions, garlic and spices like cinnamon and cloves. It often incorporates a small amount of chocolate or cocoa powder.
• Thickening Agents: Uses toasted or fried tortillas or bread as a thickener.

3. Flavor Profile:

• Molé Poblano is known for its rich, slightly sweet, and mildly spicy flavor. The chocolate adds a subtle depth to the sauce, balancing the heat of the chiles.
• The flavor profile is complex, combining the heat of the chiles with the sweetness of chocolate and the earthiness of nuts and seeds.

4. Usage:

• Often served over chicken, turkey or pork. It can also be used with other meats or vegetables.

5. Appearance:

• Typically a deep brown or reddish-brown color, depending on the types and proportions of chiles used.

Molé Negro

1. Origin:

• Molé Negro is a specialty of Oaxaca, Mexico. It is one of the seven classic molés from the region.

2. Ingredients:

• Chiles: Primarily includes pasilla, mulato, and sometimes ancho chiles.
• Other Key Ingredients: Contains a wide range of ingredients including black sesame seeds, dark chocolate or cocoa, almonds, garlic, onions and various spices.
• Thickening Agents: Often includes corn tortillas or bread, as well as sometimes ground nuts or seeds.

3. Flavor Profile:

• Molé Negro is known for its deep, complex and rich flavor. It has a pronounced earthy and smoky character due to the use of roasted ingredients. The dark chocolate adds a robust, bittersweet quality and the molé has a more intense and complex spice profile compared to Molé Poblano.
• The flavor can be quite bold and slightly bitter, balanced by the sweetness of the chocolate and the richness of the other ingredients.

4. Usage:

• Commonly served with chicken, turkey and other meats. It’s also used in special dishes and celebratory meals in Oaxaca.

5. Appearance:

• Molé Negro is characterized by its dark, almost black color due to the extensive use of dark chiles and chocolate.

7 Molés Of Oaxaca

Oaxaca is renowned for its rich culinary tradition, particularly its “seven molés,” each with a distinct flavor profile and set of ingredients. These molés are a reflection of the region’s diverse indigenous cultures and the availability of local ingredients.

The ‘7 Molés of Oaxaca’ may be a bit of a misnomer. There are actually 23 distinct geographic regions in Oaxaca with differing cultivated ingredients and 16 distinct tribes living in those regions. This would lead one to believe that there are actually somewhere between 16 and 23 distinct molés in Oaxaca. The idea of 7 molés was brought north by Diana Kennedy in her 1972 book, ‘The Cuisines Of Mexico when she introduced Americans to Oaxacan cuisine.
Here’s an overview of the seven famous moles of Oaxaca:

1. Molé Negro
   Color: Dark, almost black
   Main Ingredients: Chilhuacle negro chiles, mulato chiles, pasilla chiles, chocolate, plantains, nuts, seeds (sesame, pumpkin), spices (cinnamon, cloves) and sometimes bread or tortillas to thicken the sauce.
   Flavor Profile: Rich, complex, and slightly sweet with deep smoky undertones. Chocolate adds a distinct bittersweet flavor, making it the most famous and often considered the most complex of the Oaxacan molés.
2. Molé Rojo

Color: Deep red
Main Ingredients: A variety of dried chiles (like guajillo, ancho, and pasilla), tomatoes, garlic, onions, nuts, and spices.
Flavor Profile: Spicy, slightly sweet, and smoky. The flavor is intense, with a balanced heat from the chiles and a touch of sweetness from tomatoes and other ingredients.

3. MoléColoradito
Color: Reddish-brown

Main Ingredients: Chiles (such as ancho and guajillo), tomatoes, plantains, raisins, almonds, sesame seeds, and chocolate.
Flavor Profile: Milder and sweeter than Molé Rojo, with a smooth, slightly fruity taste. The use of plantains and chocolate gives it a unique sweetness.

4. Molé Amarillo
Color: Yellow or bright orange
Main Ingredients: Chiles (like guajillo and costeño amarillo), tomatillos, masa (corn dough), herbs (like hoja santa) and spices.
Flavor Profile: Earthy, tangy, and slightly spicy. Unlike other moles, Mole Amarillo often includes masa, which thickens the sauce and gives it a distinct texture.

5. Molé Verde
Color: Green
Main Ingredients: Fresh green herbs (like cilantro, epazote, and parsley), green chiles, pumpkin seeds, tomatillos and sometimes hoja santa.
Flavor Profile: Bright, fresh, and herbaceous with a slight nuttiness from the pumpkin seeds. It’s lighter and more vibrant than other moles, often served with chicken or pork.

6. Molé Chichilo
Color: Dark brown to black
Main Ingredients: Chiles (chilhuacle negro and pasilla), roasted tomatoes, avocado leaves, and sometimes charred tortillas.
Flavor Profile: Smoky, slightly bitter, and earthy. Chichilo has a deep, complex flavor, with the bitterness from charred ingredients giving it a distinctive taste.

7. Molé Manchamanteles
Color: Bright red
Main Ingredients: Chiles (like ancho), tomatoes, pineapples, plantains, and sometimes pork or chicken.
Flavor Profile: Sweet, fruity, and mildly spicy. The name “manchamantel” means “tablecloth stainer,” referring to its vibrant color and rich consistency. The combination of fruits like pineapple and plantains with chiles creates a unique sweet-savory sauce.

These seven molés represent the diversity and richness of Oaxacan cuisine, with each one offering a different experience in terms of flavor, texture, and complexity. Often the ingredients in these molés will augment the color of the chiles used as in the Molé Amarillo and Molé Verde.

23 Molés Of Oaxaca

The idea that there could be 23 different molés in Oaxaca is a compelling argument, given the region’s incredible diversity. Oaxaca is home to 23 distinct geographic regions and an equal number of indigenous tribes, each with its own culinary traditions and local ingredients. These variations can give rise to countless unique molé recipes, each reflecting the specific culture, climate, and available ingredients of a particular area.

While the “seven molés” of Oaxaca are the most famous, they are not exhaustive. In reality, the variety of molés across Oaxaca could be much larger, with each community having its own version or even multiple versions of molé. Factors like the type of chiles used, the choice of nuts or seeds, the inclusion of local herbs, and the cooking methods can all influence the final dish, resulting in a rich tapestry of molé varieties that extend well beyond the seven classic types.

This diversity is a testament to Oaxaca’s rich culinary heritage, where food is deeply tied to identity, history, and the land. The concept of 23 different molés underscores the idea that molé is not just a single dish but a complex and ever-evolving expression of Oaxaca’s cultural diversity.

Aztec Influence

With the rise of the Aztec empire to the north, predominately Nahua people, the geography of Oaxaca kept the indigenous tribes there somewhat insulated from the Aztec influence. While the Aztecs did attempt to subjugate these tribes they were unsuccessful for the most part. This allowed the indigenous cultures to survive basically intact, although there was some trading between the regions.

Spanish Influence

When the Spanish arrived in the 1500’s they set about conquering the Aztecs and brought about the end of that empire. The Zapotecs saw the Spanish as allies in keeping the Aztecs at bay and struck a deal with them that largely preserved the Oaxacan cultures intact. As a result, Oaxaca remains a state with unusually intact ancient cultures and traditions. This is part of what gives the Oaxacan molés so much culinary significance.

It is also of note that the Spanish brought a lot of food items that have become associated with Mexican food such as chickens, tomatoes and limes. The ancient traditions would have incorporated duck or goose rather than chicken, and tomatillos rather than tomatoes.

2 Cooks Molé Recipes

In our molé recipes we have tried to embrace the wide diversity of flavors, ingredients and methods that we found while researching this wonderful food category. There are so many varieties of chiles and several different ways to prepare the dried chiles for use. We have utilized all of the methods we’ve encountered during our research in one recipe or another, showcasing the diversity of this exceptional culinary tradition. We have worked to find the correct traditional ingredients in order to experience this cuisine as it was meant to be, while also experimenting with the methods and ingredients to create our own versions of molé in a modern setting.

Our experience with molé is ever evolving and we enjoy sharing what we learn on the journey.

• Molé Colorado
• Molé Verde
• Molé Amarillo
• Classic Molé Rojo
• Easy Molé Rojo
• Molé Coloradito
• Molé Chuchilo Negro
• Molé Manchamanteles
• Molé Poblano
• Oaxacan Molé Negro
• Quick and Easy 30 Minute Molé

References and more resources:

Books:
“The Art of Mexican Cooking” by Diana Kennedy
A classic work that provides detailed recipes and insights into traditional Mexican cooking, including various molés.
Available on Amazon
“Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico” by Susana Trilling
This book explores the rich culinary traditions of Oaxaca, including detailed recipes for several types of mole.
Available on Amazon
“Mexico: The Cookbook” by Margarita Carrillo Arronte
Provides a comprehensive look at Mexican cuisine, including various mole recipes.
Available on Amazon
“Mole: Recipes and History” by Roberto Santibañez
Offers an exploration of the history and recipes for various types of mole, with a focus on authentic preparations.
Available on Amazon

Academic Articles:
“The Mole and the Mexican Culinary Tradition: A Historical Perspective” by Miguel Angel González
Provides a scholarly look at the development and cultural significance of mole in Mexican cuisine.
“Regional Variations of Mole in Mexico: A Comparative Study” by Ana María Lobo
Examines the different types of mole found across Mexico, focusing on regional ingredients and preparation methods.

Web Resources:
Mexican Culinary Traditions
Offers articles and recipes related to mole and other traditional Mexican dishes.
Mexico’s Food Culture: Molé (https://www.mexicanculture.com/mole/)
Provides an overview of mole, including its history, types, and cultural significance.
https://gastronomica.org
Includes articles on Mexican cuisine, including detailed studies on mole and other traditional dishes.